Well the swell is over. three days of perfect surf. yesterday i surfed a spot i wanted to surf for a long time with perfect waves. today i went to a beach brake and it was perfect, barrels, blue water and no one out. then i broke a board _sucks i really liked that board_ then i went to get another board and 3 waves later i was sitting on my board and a huge shark came like 4 meters away from me. so i paddled in. maybe with the broken board and the shark god was telling me it was not my day. but i still got a few good ones and was pumped any way.
here are the pics

The reef doing its thing

The beach brake

This was my last wave. you can see me looking back at the shark. i almost pooped my pants. he was a big fellow.

The broken board


2 responses

  1. Cristina

    Estan super cool las fotos!!

    September 28, 2011 at 09:41

  2. Cristina

    esoo!! q buen brincos!!

    September 28, 2011 at 09:42

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