Well the swell is over. three days of perfect surf. yesterday i surfed a spot i wanted to surf for a long time with perfect waves. today i went to a beach brake and it was perfect, barrels, blue water and no one out. then i broke a board _sucks i really liked that board_ then i went to get another board and 3 waves later i was sitting on my board and a huge shark came like 4 meters away from me. so i paddled in. maybe with the broken board and the shark god was telling me it was not my day. but i still got a few good ones and was pumped any way.
here are the pics