No surf for more than a week is heavy for me. I know it sounds stupid, but well I never said I was smart. No surf makes my head go stupid, that’s for sure.
But at least the weather has been nice (not sunny, not rainy), I’m starting a new job that looks like the bomb, good parties, good food. But it would be nice to get some surf to reset shit on the head.
The good thing is that a good swell is on the way. Hopefully things stay the same and the swell is as good as it looks like.
Nothing more to say.